Natural Hair Q&A II

Vonda, the Decadent Beauty is back with more questions regarding natural hair care and maintenance.

Vonda: I've been using olive oil as a hot oil treatment, is there a certain hot oil treatment that's better to use?

DB: Not really. You can use any oil of that you like. As long as you're saturating the hair from root to tip and getting the scalp as well.  Olive oil is good on it's own. You can enhance the olive oil by adding some coconut oil, jojoba oil and vitamin E if you like.  Here's a simple recipe:

1/2 to 1 c Olive oil (adjust depending on the length and volume of your hair)
2 Tbsp Coconut oil
2 tsp Jojoba oil
1 tsp Vitamin E oil

In a double boiler heat your up your coconut and olive oil for about 10 to 15 minutes over a low heat. Remove from heat and let cool for 10 minutes.  Add in jojoba and vitamin E oil and pour into an applicator bottle.  Coat the entire scalp and hair shaft from root to tip.  Put on a plastic cap/bag and wrap a towel over that and leave on for 15 minutes. Wash hair thoroughly to remove the oil.

DB: How's your hair in the front doing? How many inches of new growth would you say you have?

Vonda: It's still straight with a slight wavy pattern to it. It's almost like it's a totally different texture.  I have about 2 to 3 inches of new growth.

DB: That's ok, 2 to 3 inches is good.  Just give it time and you'll learn how to deal with it as time goes on.

Vonda: Yeah, it's grown a lot. I'm excited about it this time around and it seems a lot healthier.  I'm going to get braids pretty soon so I don't have to worry about it for a while.  Are micro braids good for natural hair or should I get twists?

DB: That's good.  Overall health is what's most important.  Whether it's twists or braids make sure that your hair isn't braided or twisted tightly at the root, especially your edges.  Let the braider know that up front because you can always go back in a few weeks time to get them touched up.  Also, I suggest doing a deep conditioning treatment the night before and take in your own hair butter or favorite moisturizing styling product.

Vonda: So a braider can use hair butter when they braid your hair?

DB: Yes, some braiders will braid your hair with a product and some don't.  If the braider uses a hair product on your hair while braiding make sure it isn't a petroleum and/or mineral oil based product. You want your hair to be moisturized and the scalp and hair shafts to be able to breathe. Also don't be afraid to ask the braider your questions before hand so that you feel comfortable.  Remember that it's your hair, time and money.

Vonda: If I run out of distilled water can I use boiled water instead as a base for my hair spritz?

DB: Although distilled water is best, boiled water will do when you're in a pinch just be sure to add a natural preservative like honey, tea tree oil, vitamin E or grape seed extract.

Vonda: What are some good YouTube channels that I can watch to learn how to do some styles besides two strand twists?

DB: There are so many of them out there.  The ones that come to mind at the moment are MahganyKnots, Glamazini, MsVCharles, Mahogany Curls, MyNaturalSistas, Naptural85, PrettyDimples01 and ToniDaley80

Vonda: Is Kool-aid a good coloring agent to use on natural hair?

DB: No. I would recommend that you stick to natural dyes like henna and indigo are just a few that come to mind.  If you're going to use store bought hair dyes or go to a hairstylist then I recommend doing a hot oil treatment at least 24 hours before and a deep conditioning treatment afterwards. Commercial hair dyes have alcohol in them, which can be very drying to the hair. Check out this website to look up the ingredients of Kool-aid.

Natural Hair Q&A

The following questions are from a decadent beauty who's transitioning from relaxed to natural. At the moment she wishes not to have her picture posted.

Q: I just did a partial big chop. Is it normal that my hair is always shedding?
A: Shedding is normal especially after a "big chop". Because you're a newly natural it may seem a bit excessive because of the adjustment your hair is going through. Just know that our hair sheds on a daily basis unless of course it's in a protective style and there are those of us that shed more hair than others and that's normal. Now if you notice that there are some bald spots where you have shed some hair than that's a different matter all together like alopecia. I recommend seeing a doctor if that's the case.

Q: Ok, because it was a lot of hair. I didn't know if it was because I wear a lot of headbands or if it was thining.
A: Try not to wear headbands as much because the hair is trying to regenerate so the band is pulling and stressing the hair follicles. Thus why I suggest not using a brush. If you want to smooth down the edges of your hairline then spritz it with water, apply castor oil or gel and place a silk/satin scarf on it for about 10 minutes.

Q: Ok, I'll try that. Thanks. I have a long way to go with this natural hair thing. I just hope it begins to grow.
A: It will. Just remember to be patient, that's the key. On average our hair grows half an inch a month, which gives a total of 6 inches a year. Figure out a regular hair care routine and moisturize daily. You'll be fine.

Q: Is there a reason why my hair has two different textures? The front is straight with a slight curl to it and the rest is curly. Did the perm maybe change the texture?
A: It is normal to have more than one texture in your hair. And it is possible for the chemical of a relaxer or texturizer to change the texture of your hair. Watch that area as it grows out and if the ends are still straight while the new growth is curly then the ends of the hair is still relaxed and needs to be trimmed/cut off.

Q: How long does it take for a relaxer to grow out?
A: It depends on how fast your hair grows. Remember on average we get a total of 6" of new growth a year. There are those of us where our hair grows faster. You might want to trim off the relaxed ends every 6 to 8 weeks depending on how much growth you've acquired.

Q: Do you recommend micro (braids)?
A: Micro braids are fine as long as your edges or any thin/weak parts of your hair aren't braided to tightly. You don't want the hair pulled so tight that when you take them out your hair comes out with it.

Q: Can I use the mayo conditioner every week?
A: You can I would also recommend adding 5 to 10 drops each of rosemary and lavender essential oils because they're known to help promote hair growth.

Q: Are texturizers ok to use?
A: No. Although they're advertised to bring out the natural curl pattern of one's hair it's still a chemical. There are lots of natural products such as flaxseed gel, castor oil or shealoe that can enhance your natural curl pattern.

Q: I don't like how my hair looks and feels after doing the "big chop". I want it to look and feel softer. It was badly damaged, broken off and had varying lengths when it was relaxed. That's why I was considering a texturizer. What do you recommend?
A: Alternate between co-washing and shampooing, moisturize daily (whether it's with water, oil or a combination of the two), deep condition once a week and do a protein treatment once every 6 to 8 weeks. After about three months or so (if not sooner) you should notice the difference in how your hair feels.

Q: What if I decide to put my hair in a protective style for three months? Will that cause my hair any damage?
A: No. With your hair in a protective style it won't be prone to the daily manipulation of styling. Just be mindful to clean your scalp like with a ACV or rosemary/tea tree oil spritz and moisturize your hair and scalp as often as needed. Take care to shampoo or co-wash it as needed and seal in the moisture with a good hair butter. Wear a stain scarf or bonnet or sleep on a satin pillow case. Just a side note to that, if you're going to keep your hair braided for the better part of a year be sure to give your hair a 1 to 2 week breathing period. You don't want to risk thining edges or breakage/damage.

Q: Do you have a recommendation for a homemade hair spritz ?
A: 1/2 c distilled water, 1/3 c oil (coconut, almond, olive or any oil of your choice), 1/3 c vegetable glycerin or aloe vera juice and 5 to 10 drops of the essential voice of your choice (rosemary, lavender, etc.).

Q: Do I have to moisturize my hair with a water based spritz?
A: No. You can also use an oil (coconut, olive, etc.) or butter (cocoa or shea) of your choice to moisturize your hair and scalp.

Q: Is Argan oil an essential oil?
A: Actually Argan oil is a carrier oil. Essential oils are a concentrated oil derived from a plant or herb and have a strong natural fragrance to them.

Ayurvedic Hair Tea

Ayurvedic Hair Tea

1 1/4 c Distilled Water
2 tsp Shikakai powder
2 tsp Amla powder
2 tsp Brahmi powder
2 Soap Nuts
2 tsp Vegetable Glycerine
2 tsp Vitamin E Oil
5 drops Rosemary Essential Oil (optional)
5 drops Lavender Essential Oil (optional)
5 drops Lemongrass Essential Oil (optional)
2 tsp Rosemary Oil Extract or Grapefruit Seed Extract (preservative)

In a medium to sauce pot mix the ayuverdic herbs in with the water. Bring to a boil over a medium heat and then let simmer for 15 minutes.  Strain through a strainer and cheesecloth and let cool for 10 to 15 minutes.  Thoroughly stir in remainder of ingredients. Pour into a spray bottle.

Decadent Beauty-Ariel

I was on public transport a few weeks back when I saw this Decadent Beauty and I had to feature her here.

DB: How long have you been natural and what led you to go natural?

Ariel: I have been natural since February 2010. I choose to go natural because of my kids, I never have time to do my hair also because I feel if your really beautiful inside and out then your hair doesn't matter, and I would stay natural after watching Chris Rock in Good Hair.

DB: What do you think is the best thing about being natural?

Ariel: Its convenient, and it shows the natural beauty of a person with no fake stuff.

DB: What is your current hair care regimen?

Ariel: I just wash,brush and go.

DB: Moisture is so important for black hair. How do you maintain moisture living in such a dry climate?

Ariel: I grease my hair alot but right now trying to find a good moisturizer is difficult.

DB: Do you have any words of wisdom that you'd like to share with transitioners or newly naturals?

Ariel: love your self and know being natural is being you 100% no added fakeness just you and the true beauty within you.

DB: Is there anything else that you'd like to add?

Ariel: I love the comfort of being natural and i love my hair and i love not wasting time and money on products that take away the true beauty of my hair.

Friend Ariel on Facebook.

Transitioning from Relaxed to Natural Hair

So you've been thinking about or decided to transition from relaxed hair to natural hair and you're not sure how to go about it.  You have two choices, you can do a BC (big chop) and sport your glorious TWA (teeny weeny afro) or transition until all of the relaxed hair is completely gone. If you decided to transition it means establishing a routine to gain and maintain healthy hair while dealing with two completely different hair textures.

When transitioning pay attention to the relaxed ends because if any breaking or splitting occurs it will travel up the hair shaft causing the natural new growth to split as well. Breakage happens at the line of demarcation, this is where your natural hair meets the relaxed hair. This area is prone to breakage because the moisture/protein balance differs between the two textures. So avoid playing in your hair since this promotes breakage and wear protective styles such as braids, twists, bantu knot, straw sets, weaves, wigs, etc.  If you choose to wear a weave or half wig then find a way to blend your natural hair with the artificial hair. As your hair grows cut off half an inch to an inch of relaxed hair. 

Avoid using direct heat while transitioning since it will damage your natural new growth and you'll have to start all over again. This means avoid using blow dryers, flat irons, straightening combs, and curling irons. When detangling your hair you want to be gentle, take your time, and use your fingers or a wide tooth, seamless comb. If you use your fingers to detangle make sure that your nails are well groomed because a split nail can snag the hair causing breakage.

As stated earlier you want to establish a routine while transitioning. There are three simple ways to help you out when transitioning: co-washing, deep conditioning, and hot oil treatments.

Co-washing (washing the hair with conditioner) this method is recommended nine times out of ten since most shampoos contain sulfates that strip your hair of its natural oils and moisture.  You can add whatever carrier and/or essential oils of you liking for added moisture.

The purpose of deep conditioning is to improve the hairs condition and should be done once a week.





Hot oil treatments temporarily repair damaged hair and can help with dry scalp conditions including dandruff.

Hot Oil Treatment
1/2 c dried rosemary leaves (rosemary promotes hair growth)
1/2 c olive oil
2 tsp jojoba oil.
Combine ingredients in a sauce pan over a low heat until the mixture is warm. Strain into an applicator bottle.  Coat the entire scalp, hair (including ends) with the oil mixture. Put on a plastic cap/bag and wrap a towel over that and leave on for 15 minutes. Wash hair thoroughly to remove the oil. NOTE: It's recommended that rosemary not be used if you're pregnant, nursing, have high blood pressure or on children under the age of 2 years.

Remember that moisture is going to be your best friend so using products that contain moisture or ingredients that are natural humectants is going to be your best bet.

Protein Treatments

Loss of elasticity, serious damage and severe breakage are the three main reasons for protein treatments. Hair is made up of keratin, which is a type of protein.  When hair is colored, damaged by heat or a chemical is applied to it, protein is lost causing the hair to lose some of it's elasticity and strength. 

Much of the daily care and the little extras that you do to create a hairstyle chip away at your hair's cuticle, or outer layer. Protein treatments work to build the hair shaft back up, a monthly or bi-monthly treatment will keep it in shape.  You can use products that contain protein to improve your hair's elasticity and strength or create your own. Just remember to balance protein with moisture, because too much protein will eventually dry your hair out and cause shedding and/or breakage.


Basic Protein Treatment #1
1-2 c conditioner (adjust according to the thickness and length of your hair)
1 Egg
2 Tbsp Extra Virgin Olive oil
8-10 drops Peppermint Oil 


Basic Protein Treatment #2
1 Avocado
1/2-1 c Plain Yogurt
2 Tbsp Castor oil
5-8 drops Lavender oil

Thoroughly mix ingredients together. Section hair into four parts and apply treatment to each section. Be sure to work the treatment from the root of the hair to the ends. Place a plastic cap/bag on and wrap a towel on top of it so that the body's heat can help penetrate the treatment into the hair shaft. Let sit for 30 minutes and rinse out with warm water.