Chemical Hair Products: Health Reperucussions

Here's a great article on the health repercussions of chemical hair products featured in Collective Voices by Dr. Ami Zota and Trina Jackson via SisterSong

Over the last three decades, the environmental justice movement has been highlighting the impacts of structural racism on the health and environment of communities of color. The severe environmental degradation within our communities not only permeates where we live, work, and play, but it also affects women’s bodies, the first environment for all of us. Chemical exposures encountered by the fetus in the womb can have long lasting effects on the reproductive health of our children and likely play a role in the disturbing and ever increasing health conditions within the Black community including low birth weight, obesity, early puberty, and breast cancer mortality especially among young Black women. In this article, we seek to raise awareness about an emerging reproductive justice issue – the environmental injustice of beauty – by discussing social constructions of beauty, resulting coping mechanisms including chemical hair products and their public health repercussions.


The dominant culture of the U.S. idealizes the physical characteristics of White women and measures women of color against this arbitrary standard. As a result, natural, kinky hair-which is most associated with blackness-has been tied to inferiority in the United States. Even, within the African American community, there exists a stratum between those with "good hair" and "bad hair." In these terms, “good hair” is associated with being straight, smooth, long, and easy to manage. “Bad hair” is associated with being kinky, short, rough and hard to manage.

These mainstream notions of beauty and attractiveness have not only been reinforced by the media but also by our families and community social norms causing a lot of stress and self loathing in Black women. As a result, Black women have turned to the widespread use of chemically-intensive hair straighteners as a form of self-medication, a hypothesis that suggests that Black women have used and often abused chemical hair products to cope with the constant assault of White beauty standards.

Chemically relaxed hair is currently the most popular style choice for Black women. In a recent study, 80 percent of the Black women surveyed responded that they believed relaxed hair is more easily maintained than natural hair. Black women spend approximately $50 million per year on chemical straighteners alone. Walk into any pharmacy and you'll see a deluge of harsh chemical products that promise black women “unnappy hair”.

However, little attention has been given to the safety of chemicals in hair creams and lotions. Many hair products marketed to the Black community contain placenta, hormones such as estrogen, and toxic chemicals that have the ability to mimic our bodies’ natural hormones. Synthetic hormones, such as hormone replacement therapy, increase breast cancer risk. Animal studies show that estrogen-mimicking chemicals cause mammary gland tumors, and affect sexual and reproductive development so even small exposures to these chemicals during critical periods (like pregnancy and early childhood) can have a large public health impact. It is difficult to know if personal care products contain dangerous chemicals because manufacturers rarely list all the ingredients. Silent Spring Institute, a nonprofit researching women’s health and the environment, is currently testing African American hair products for hormonally active ingredients to advance our understanding of how hair products may increase health risks in women of color.

In the meantime, we need to educate ourselves and our communities and push for healthier, less toxic hair products. More importantly, we must avoid blame, and recognize that similar to other forms of substance abuse, the widespread use of hair straighteners is a coping mechanism to internalized racism and systemic oppression. Change must occur both on the personal and community level.

Dr. Ami Zota is a research scientist at Silent Spring Institute where she researches environmental health risks in collaboration with communities of color struggling for environmental justice. Trina Jackson is an activist, educator, and organizer, and chairs the board of Alternatives for Community and Environment (ACE), a grassroots organization in Roxbury, MA that builds the power of communities of color to achieve environmental justice.

Jasmine Essential Oil

Jasmine was originally grown in China and Northern India and the Moors introduced it to Spain. The Jasmine flower posses a strong but sweet fragrance, which is common in those flowers which bloom at night. Jasmine Essential Oil is extracted from the flowers of Jasmine and carries many help benefits such as relieving eczema, toning dry, irritated and sensitive skin and increases elasticity.

The health benefits of Jasmine can be attributed to its properties like anti depressant, anti septic, aphrodisiac, anti spasmodic, cicatrisant, expectorant, galactogogue, emenagogue, parturient, sedative and uterine.

• Anti Depressant: The aroma is pleasing and uplifting to the mind and fights depression.
• Anti Septic: It has very effective germicidal, bacterial, fungicidal and anti viral properties.  When externally applied to wounds it prevents it from becoming septic and checks infection from tetanus.
• Anti Spasmodic: It gives quick relief to spasmodic coughs, cramps, congestion, asthma as well as intestinal cramps and pains resulting from spasm.
• Cicatrisant: Jasmine oil can help with the fading away of scar marks.
• Emenagogue: Jasmine Oil's emenagogue property is known to aide women who suffer from irregular and painful menses or menopause and the ill effects that are associated with them such as fatigue, nausea, etc.
  
• Galactogogue: This property is said to help protect against breast tumors or cancer. It increases milk secretions therefore it's very good for lactating mothers.
• Parturient: Jasmine Essential Oil facilitates and eases birth while reducing labor pains.
• Sedative: Calms the mind, body and soul bringing forth positive emotions. Relieves anxiety, stress, depression and anger.
• Uterine: This oil helps with uterine health buy toning it up and promoting a flow of certain hormones that ensure good health and proper uterine function. It also helps protect if from tumors especially after menopause.

Note of caution: Those who are allergic to Jasmine should avoid using it.  Pregnant women should avoid using this oil because it's an Emenagogue.

Jasmine is known to blend well with other essential oils such as Bergamot, Sandalwood, Rose, Lemon, Grapefruit, etc.

Currently the best producers of Jasmine Essential Oil are Italy, Morocco, Egypt, China, Japan and Turkey.

Hair Loss and Thining Edges

If you're losing copious amounts of hair very suddenly then you need to see a doctor early for an exam, proper diagnosis and medication if necessary.  Hair loss can happen to anyone for many reasons including, but not limited to illness, medications, work, emotional stress, thyroid disease and much more.  95% of all hair loss is attributed to Androgenetic Alopecia and it can effect both men and women although men experience a much greater degree of loss. In women it occurs over most of the scalp and appears as diffused hair loss.

Here are some ways to prevent hair loss and retain and maintain the hair that you do have.

Step 1- Avoid harsh chemicals (i.e. relaxers, bleaching, and coloring) and hair styles that pull the hair tight. Hair pulling and twisting used by many African Americans can lend themselves to hair loss and balding.  This is why it's important that African American men and women reduce the wearing of tight braids and twists.  This can lead to hair loss due to scarring of the scalp area also known as Scarring Alopecia, which typically involves the top of the scalp and is believed to be associated with persistent tight braiding of the hair.  If you're going to wear your hair in braids then ask your stylist not pull or plat them so tightly.  It's better if your came loose then to fall out.  Also consult with your hairstylist to create styles that minimize the appearance of hair loss without sacrificing your look.

Step 2 - Let your scalp breathe.  Avoid wearing baseball caps, wigs and weaves everyday (stop using glue for hair weaves).  Clogged hair follicles occur when the use of heavy conditioners or other greasy products are used on the hair.

Step 3 - Try using natural herbs and oils to help stimulate hair growth. Rosemary, lavender,  sage, fenugreek, Vitamin E oil and Castor oil are just some of the natural herbs and oils that are known to stimulate hair growth.  Here's a hair oil recipe that can aide in hair growth.

1/4 c Jamaican Black Castor oil or regular Castor oil

2 Tbsp Jojoba oil

2 Tbsp Coconut/Olive oil

1 tsp Sage, fresh or dried

1 tsp Lavender, fresh or dried

1 tsp Rosemary, fresh or dried

1. In a sauce pot combine all ingredients and cook over a low heat for 45 minutes to an hour (this is known as an herbal infusion).
2. Removed oil infusion from heat and let cool until it's lukewarm
3. Drain oil through strainer or cheese cloth with funnel into applicator bottle

Note:  DO NOT shake the mixture as this causes free radicals within the oil that can cause it to go rancid.  Instead, mixing oils you want to gently roll the bottle around until all have been fully incorporated.  It's recommended that Rosemary not be used if you're pregnant, nursing, have high blood pressure or on children under the age of 2 years.

Step 4 - Incorporate more Omega 3 and Omega 6 foods, such as fish into your diet as well as drinking more water.  Eat B vitamin rich leafy vegetables and foods.  Remember that hair is made of protein and needs proper nutrition to grow. Hair loss will occur if there isn't enough protein in the diet.

Nutmeg Butter

Nutmeg Butter is extracted from the kernal of the fruite of the nutmeg tree (Myristica fragrans), a native of the Molucca Islands, but is cultivated elsewhere in the tropics.

It's a semi-solid, yellow low melting ingredients of the nutmeg fruit and contains high amounds of essential myristic acid.  Nutmeg Butter has been used to soothe skin irritations and to alleviate rheumatic pain.  It's also recommended that pregnant women do not use during pregnancy.

Nail & Cuticle Care

During the winter our nails and cuticles are more prone to becoming dry, brittle and cracked due to the lack of moisture in the air. The appearance of our nails is a good indicator of our overall health.  Nail care includes the care of our cuticles, which is the dead skin that overlaps the nail plate at the base of the nail.  The cuticle acts as a seal between the nails and the fingers and protects the body from fungus.  Ragged cuticles are an indication that your cuticles are dehydrated and in need of immediate care to restore moisture and health. By the same token too much exposure to water and/or improper trimming can result in cuts that reflect dehydration, redness and irritation.  The key to healthy nails is soft cuticles. 

Here are a few simple, homemade nail and cuticle recipes for healthier and stronger fingernails.

Olive Oil
2 Tbsp Olive oil
Warm olive oil slightly and gently massage cuticles

Lavender Olive
1 tsp Olive oil
3 drops Lavender essential oil

Healing Cuticle Oil
5-10 drops Tea Tree essential oil
2 Tbsp Sweet Almond oil

Nail Conditioner, Strengthener & Whitener
2 drops Tea Tree oil
2 drops Lavender oil
2 drops Rosemary oil
2 drops Lemon oil
2 Tbsp Vitamin E, Sweet Almond, Jojoba or Olive oil

• Remember to always store oils in a small dark glass jar or bottle (1oz-2oz) as this helps to keep the oil longer and avoid oxidization.
• Tea Tree and Lavender essential oils have anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties.
• Rosemary essential oil moisturizes and strengthens dry and brittle nails.
• Lemon essential oil strengthens weak nails as well as whitens discolored nails.
• Vitamin E, Sweet Almond, Jojoba and Olive oil are excellent moisturizers and conditioners.
• DO NOT shake the mixtures as this causes free radicals to form within the oils that can cause it to go rancid.  Instead, when mixing you want to gently roll the bottle around until all has been fully incorporated.