Read Your Labels

It's always wise to check the list of ingredients on your hair, body and face products before purchasing. Read your labels carefully when buying hair, body and face products. Most of the commercially available hair, body and face products today use harmful, potentially carcinogenic ingredients. If you have a reaction to a product that you're using then stop immediately. Listed below are just some of the worst commonly found product ingredients you can put on your hair and body.  The more of a particular ingredient you have in a product, the closer it is to the top of the list of ingredients on the bottle:

Petrolatum and Mineral Oil: Commonly known as petroleum jelly. Mineral oil is a derivative of crude oil (petroleum) that is used industrially as a cutting fluid and lubricating oil. Petroleum based products can clog your pores and cause skin eruptions and black heads because it doesn't allow the skin to breathe and release toxins.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) or Sodium Laureth Ether Sulfate (SLES): This ingredient is used in about 90% of all shampoos and products that foam as well as cosmetics, toothpaste and conditioners. It's also found in detergents and surfactants that are commonly used in engine degreasers, car wash soaps, and garage floor cleaners. A small amount generates a large quantity of foam and when salt is added it thickens up, giving the illusion of being concentrated. Since the costs of these ingredients are so cheap they are used in personal care products a lot.

Parabens: are often used in skin and body care products as preservatives. Parabens have been associated with breast cancer and can cause the skin to loose its pigment.

Isopropyl Alcohol: is found in hand lotions, body rubs, hair color rinses, after shave lotions, fragrances and many other body products.  It's a pertroleum derived substance that is used in antifreeze and as a solvent in shellac. Isopropyl alcohol is a solvent and denaturant (poisonous substance that changes another substances natural qualities). It will dry your hair out and break it off.

Polyethylene Glycol (PEG): is used not only to thicken products but in making cleaners to dissolve oil and grease. They are often used in caustic spray on oven cleaners due to their effectiveness and are found in many personal care products. PEG's leave the immune system vulnerable by stripping the body and hair of it's natural moisture factor. PEG is a carcinogenic.

Imidazolidinyl Urea and DMDM Hydantoin: These two preservatives release formaldehyde and exposure to formaldehyde can cause dizziness, allergies, loss of sleep, and joint pain among many other aliments. Serious side effects include weakening of the immune system and cancer. Almost all hair, skin and body products contain these formaldehyde releasing agents.

Transitioning from Relaxed to Natural Hair

So you've been thinking about or decided to transition from relaxed hair to natural hair and you're not sure how to go about it.  You have two choices, you can do a BC (big chop) and sport your glorious TWA (teeny weeny afro) or transition until all of the relaxed hair is completely gone. If you decided to transition it means establishing a routine to gain and maintain healthy hair while dealing with two completely different hair textures.

When transitioning pay attention to the relaxed ends because if any breaking or splitting occurs it will travel up the hair shaft causing the natural new growth to split as well. Breakage happens at the line of demarcation, this is where your natural hair meets the relaxed hair. This area is prone to breakage because the moisture/protein balance differs between the two textures. So avoid playing in your hair since this promotes breakage and wear protective styles such as braids, twists, bantu knot, straw sets, weaves, wigs, etc.  If you choose to wear a weave or half wig then find a way to blend your natural hair with the artificial hair. As your hair grows cut off half an inch to an inch of relaxed hair. 

Avoid using direct heat while transitioning since it will damage your natural new growth and you'll have to start all over again. This means avoid using blow dryers, flat irons, straightening combs, and curling irons. When detangling your hair you want to be gentle, take your time, and use your fingers or a wide tooth, seamless comb. If you use your fingers to detangle make sure that your nails are well groomed because a split nail can snag the hair causing breakage.

As stated earlier you want to establish a routine while transitioning. There are three simple ways to help you out when transitioning: co-washing, deep conditioning, and hot oil treatments.

Co-washing (washing the hair with conditioner) this method is recommended nine times out of ten since most shampoos contain sulfates that strip your hair of its natural oils and moisture.  You can add whatever carrier and/or essential oils of you liking for added moisture.

The purpose of deep conditioning is to improve the hairs condition and should be done once a week.





Hot oil treatments temporarily repair damaged hair and can help with dry scalp conditions including dandruff.

Hot Oil Treatment
1/2 c dried rosemary leaves (rosemary promotes hair growth)
1/2 c olive oil
2 tsp jojoba oil.
Combine ingredients in a sauce pan over a low heat until the mixture is warm. Strain into an applicator bottle.  Coat the entire scalp, hair (including ends) with the oil mixture. Put on a plastic cap/bag and wrap a towel over that and leave on for 15 minutes. Wash hair thoroughly to remove the oil. NOTE: It's recommended that rosemary not be used if you're pregnant, nursing, have high blood pressure or on children under the age of 2 years.

Remember that moisture is going to be your best friend so using products that contain moisture or ingredients that are natural humectants is going to be your best bet.

Protein Treatments

Loss of elasticity, serious damage and severe breakage are the three main reasons for protein treatments. Hair is made up of keratin, which is a type of protein.  When hair is colored, damaged by heat or a chemical is applied to it, protein is lost causing the hair to lose some of it's elasticity and strength. 

Much of the daily care and the little extras that you do to create a hairstyle chip away at your hair's cuticle, or outer layer. Protein treatments work to build the hair shaft back up, a monthly or bi-monthly treatment will keep it in shape.  You can use products that contain protein to improve your hair's elasticity and strength or create your own. Just remember to balance protein with moisture, because too much protein will eventually dry your hair out and cause shedding and/or breakage.


Basic Protein Treatment #1
1-2 c conditioner (adjust according to the thickness and length of your hair)
1 Egg
2 Tbsp Extra Virgin Olive oil
8-10 drops Peppermint Oil 


Basic Protein Treatment #2
1 Avocado
1/2-1 c Plain Yogurt
2 Tbsp Castor oil
5-8 drops Lavender oil

Thoroughly mix ingredients together. Section hair into four parts and apply treatment to each section. Be sure to work the treatment from the root of the hair to the ends. Place a plastic cap/bag on and wrap a towel on top of it so that the body's heat can help penetrate the treatment into the hair shaft. Let sit for 30 minutes and rinse out with warm water.

Moisture 101

Moisture is very important for natural hair and is one of the key factors for obtaining and maintaining healthy hair.  When hair is dry it feels brittle and hard and it's prone to damage and breakage.  When hair is moisturized it feels soft, silky and is more manageable. Natural hair requires a lot of moisture so after each shampoo or co-wash you want to seal in that moisture with an oil of your choice.

Keep in mind that if you're transitioning from relaxed to natural you're dealing with two different textures and that natural hair is dry.  Natural hair thrives on moisture and you may notice that at different phases of your transitioning your hair will immediately absorb the moisture you apply to it and you'll have to apply it again.  Be sure to moisturize the hair from root to end.

Two basic ways of moisturizing the hair is with water or oil.  Water based moisture is usually straight water or a combination of water, vegetable glycerin and essential oils. Oil based moisture consists of shea butter, olive oil, castor oil, sweet almond oil, etc.  When moisturizing with oil you may want to take in consideration the type of oil you use during the time of year.  For example it's common to use lighter oils such as jojoba, sweet almond, and coconut during the summer and heavier oils such as shea butter and castor during the winter.  Bottom line, find out what works for you.

Basic Hair Moisturizer/Spritz
1 cup distilled water
1/2 c vegetable glycerin or aloe vera juice or gel
8-10 drops lavender essential oil
1 tsp vitamin E oil

Pour and store in a spray bottle.  Shake well before each use.

Shea Butter Moisturizer
4 oz shea butter
2 Tbsp coconut oil
2 tsp jojoba oil
1 tsp vitamin E oil
5 drops lavender essential oil
10 drops of rosemary essential oil (optional)

Thoroughly whip together with a hand mixer making sure that no lumps of shea butter remain. You can also put the shea butter in the microwave for 30 seconds (no longer than that or you compromise its beneficial properties) to soften it up a bit.  Store in airtight container once thoroughly mixed.

Hair Care Regimen

Finding a weekly or monthly routine that allows you to maintain the overall health and length retention of your hair can be done in three easy steps.

1. Start out by removing processes and products that don't agree with your hair and add those that do
2. Find a regimen that is most suited for your lifestyle.  As your hair and lifestyle changes your regimen should as well
3. Stick with it. Black hair is fragile, which means it tends to be dry and prone to breakage. So it's important to nourish the hair so it retains it's overall health.

Here's an example of a basic hair care regimen.

• Co-wash once a week or two weeks. If you feel the need to shampoo then be sure to use a sulfate free shampoo (rotate shampoos and conditioners so that the hair doesn't totally acclimate and stop responding)
• Deep condition after each wash for 30-40 minutes
• Rinse hair with cool or warm water (rinsing hair with hot water can dry it out)
• Hot oil treatments provide added moisture
• Seal in moisture with a butter (during the winter) or a light oil (during the summer)
• Protein treatment once every six weeks (this is especially recommended for damaged hair)
• Wear protective styles such as twists, braids, wigs, etc.